Monday, July 30, 2012

Birthday cake

Its been 5 days since my very delicious and sugary birthday cake, but now that I have a chance to post a photo of it, here is one. Its the cookie with Mohamed lighting a lighter for me to "blow". Very sweet and nice from Team Rubicon! Rock on guys!


Maban, South Sudan
30.7.2012

Black listed foods!

I've been out here in Maban for 2 weeks and a half now. Seems like a short period of time for anyone out there. However, when it comes to our food menu at the compound, its a pretty long duration! I know it sounds very inappropriate to complain or "bitch" about food while people are starving around us; but I'm not the only one complaining here.

Our usual complain is usually around the lack of variety in our food menu, because we have been eating the SAME things for breakfast, lunch and dinner everyday! (for me for the last 2 weeks). Yes, logistics and finance are working on improving it (example: grilling a whole goat last Friday for dinner!).. its still goat though!

Today, our support team from the US army tried to go out and get some chicken. Not available in the market yet, but we've been promised! I'm looking forward to spotting some river fish around in August and some fruits in September. Let's see!

Until then, the following are food items that are already on my black list (at least for a few weeks when I get out of here, I don't want to put these things in my mouth!):
Jackson: we will eat him tomorrow!


1. Peanut butter: its nice, but no thanks.
2. White plain rice: its like eating air.
3. Goat meat: yes I like goat..but not with so many small bones (Sudanese style) and not everyday for sure!
4. Lentils: nutritious but I don't need gas on a daily basis!
5. Beans: same as above.
6. Plain white pasta: sticky, over boiled and plain...why?
7. Stinky tuna: ew!
8. Instant coffee: God help me take you for the next upcoming weeks!
9. Chlorinated water: its clean! but drinking swimming pool water every few hours is not sexy.
10. Stale white bread: chewy and unnecessary!

Interestingly, I find my body asking for sugar out here more than anywhere else I've been to. No idea where this sugar crave is coming from but its there constantly and despite all the above, I've been eating like a pig. I'm even drinking soda which I haven't done on a regular basis since university. But, there are countless things that make no sense in South Sudan and this is one of them. Oh well!
 
After all, we can just thank God for things we have and hope to get ice-cream and a fresh green salad in the near future!

Maban, South Sudan
30.7.2012

Thursday, July 26, 2012

"I'm the deputy Sheikh"

So, finally, the work buzz has kicked in! It was actually on my birthday that I got some action work-wise and its because the 25th of July was the first day of relocating refugees from one camp to the other. Basically, the refugee camp called Jammam is totally flooded and so UNHCR has picked up a new location for around 30,000 people in an area called Gendrassa to move them too.

Its generally drier in Gendrassa than other areas; but it means nothing unfortunately. This is because the rainy season has just started and so, mud, pools and stagnant water are expected with more influx of people. For now, we are all just trying to enjoy the greener, cleaner, less smelly and hence less fly contaminated environment.

Until today, around 500 people have been moved up into Gendrassa by UNHCR. Our work was mainly to nutritionally screen every child from 6 months to 5 years, give them vitamin A and "de-worming" medication and send them to receive all necessary vaccinations. Its been exciting but pretty exhausting. I've been standing up from 9 am to 5 pm, screening, supervising local staff, liaising, helping out, getting screaming children spit all the medication I squirt into their mouths all over me ... the usual! Walking around in gum boots is  not the easiest thing either.

Anyway, the bright side of things is that I got a temporary laptop that I will have to share with a colleague who doesn't have one. However, I have my hardware! So, I will try to upload photos on it later.

Also, I have a single, more private, tent put up for me today in a more quiet location (for now) of the compound. Of course, the crazy fat frogs and very weird bugs are there, but I have my own small, yet private space. Lets see how long this tent will last though, because its a bit cheap quality so I hope it doesn't flood or topple over with any windy and rainy nights that are expected to come.

Our number in the compound if increasing. Some people are going to leave on Saturday; but this is very common in an emergency: people come and go as quickly as refugees do. Its nice to meet new people from around the world, but I must say that it is kind of exhausting too.

Oh well! the funniest encounter I had today with the refugees was when I tried to get in touch with one of their "sheikhs" or community leaders, and I was led to see a guy who introduced himself as the "deputy Sheikh". It took me a second to register that, simply because I've never heard of a "deputy sheikh" before! Hopefully, he was telling the truth.

I will leave this here for today and get back to late night work before going off to sleep with the frogs, snakes and bugs! (speaking off: we've killed a baby Black Mamba today. Scary!)

Maban, South Sudan
26.7.2012

Monday, July 23, 2012

Anticipated Birthday Action

So, basically my mission here is slowwwlllllyyyy coming into shape. I'm still confused about how certain things will get done, but I'm learning that answers will come on  a daily basis and that those answers might actually change from one day to another!

Anyway, our current clinical and very basic systematic nutrition screening has been going on in a camp called Yusuf Batil, where currently, around 35,000 refugees from Sudan reside. However, our next phase of work and essentially the bulk of my mission, will be based in a new camp called Gendrassa where people from a flooded camp further away from here will be reallocated to.

Interestingly, the first batch of refugees will be arriving to Gendrassa on Wednesday the 25th of July! What a birthday treat!

Although I have a clear job description of whats expected from me and what I should do until I leave here, I'm working with a somehow weird colleague. She's Ethiopian and she has far more technical experience than me in this field. However, her communication and management skills are by far, the worst I've seen. She also has a very bad memory (so keeps mixing things up even after listening to me or anyone else for an hour!)...god! she even forgot the Satellite phone somewhere once (luckily we found it!)

I sometimes wonder why do I end up with such unorganized individuals as line managers. Its part of the reason why I sometimes love and hate this job at the same time.

Ok, back to work front. My first visit to the actual field to see our beneficiaries (our clients in other words) was conducted in Yusuf Batil camp on Saturday. The refugee population, as I expected, is extremely vulnerable. Diarrhea, respiratory tract infections and eye infections are widespread and you don't need a doctor to see that. Also, children under 2 years of age are extremely dehydrated and malnourished. Its interesting how I felt when I saw all this (and children playing with animal waste as toys!). It was a mixture of sadness, shock, anger at the world and emptiness. It really hurts you at a very deep level that when you reflect on what you see everyday before you go to bed, not only do you thank whatever God you worship for what you have, but you cry out of happiness for your situation (even if it comes with its own hardships and problems).

Indeed, the population we are expecting to come in on Wednesday to Gendrassa will b, reportedly, even more vulnerable with high rates of mortality, high cases of malaria with complications and a few suspected cases of cholera.

I'm actually nervous about Wednesday and what I am supposed to do. I will be there waiting with the screeners to direct and supervise together with the Nutrition Program Manager (the one mentioned above). However, the bulk of my work will be to reach out to the community with health and nutrition messages to prevent disease and malnutrition. Working with the community is extremely challenging and, given the perfectionist that I am, I'm nervous about doing a good job out there.

Otherwise, around the compound, things are evolving. I was expected a temporary laptop tomorrow, but its been delayed to get here until Thursday because those coming with it could not get a reservation tomorrow (oh bugger! our boss is English. Go figure!). So, I'm still kind of begging for computers every now and then until my situation is resolved. My Mac is still in Juba and I'm waiting to hear about it being "DHLed" soon to Germany.

I'm also trying to get my own tent. The single ones are all occupied but I'm hoping to go into one as soon as someone leaves. I definitely need my privacy and space and NOT to sleep with someone I've been working with all day and have issues with as well! Lets see how that goes.

With the rate of insects crawling up and down my body, I will have to leave this here. At least I still have a closed Nutella jar to get me going for my anticipated birthday action!

Maban, South Sudan
23.7.2012 


Saturday, July 21, 2012

Maban

Let me start by saying that we are finally in the field! And by we, I'm talking about my colleague Joseph and I, who were basically stranded in Malakal for 3 nights.

South Sudanese Smile (classic!)
The airport ordeal was not as bad as I thought it would be. We checked in, got on the first flight to Maban and got out. The only thing is, we still have 4 IMC* boxes waiting for WFP* to get their act together and fix their stupid booking system that is messing up everything.

Anyway, Maban... oh man..where do I begin!

As expected: muddy like nothing I've seen before. Host communities (those living here and are called "host" because they basically host refugees) have nothing. Seriously. I head that beer is easily available in the local almost empty market (surprisingly imported beer!) but I didn't see much on the way to the IMC campsite. There are wild pigs, cows, goats, camels and of course, BUGS! everywhere...BUGS (you cannot even imagine how many there are on my Mac screen right now while writing this in the dark..my colleagues have eaten some already!)

My first scare was the latrine facility. I arrived to the campsite with an urge to pee and so i went in. I removed the cover and the moment I did that, tens and tens of blue flies and maggots came out. I had to do it but I don't know if I will again. I just want to forget about that right now!

Bright sides of the campsite: cooked food (and the ladies love me because I speak Arabic to them); clean water for the shower (from the bucket but better than Malakal) and good East African company.

____________________________

 ..... This is where I left this post when my computer "died"because of a water bottle spill. Sadly, and indeed, a bad start to campsite life with a dead computer. So, the computer has been transported back to Juba (after running around with it for 2 days to find sun to give it a drying tan), to be shipped to Germany for the hubby to take care of it.

Since, then (since Tuesday and today is Saturday), I've been running with my flash drive from one empty laptop to another to get some basic paperwork done. It's been frustrating and we're expected around 3 laptops in; but with the IMC paperwork, the supply chain issues in South Sudan and the very unreliable WFP flights, I'm not sure when those will come in (right now, I'm using the country director's laptop to write this!)

IMC Compound (17/7/2012)
This is not meant to be long. I will write later about the field and what I saw. I'll leave this for our compound. Oh, and speaking off: with every day, I get used to how to do things around here:

- Wake up at 6:30 am and run to pee in the fly-less latrine (flies are asleep at this point still)
- Team meeting at 7:30 (of course make coffee before that!)
- Work on daily action plan until 5:30 - 6:00 (includes lunch time)
- Fill a bucket with water, carry it to shower, get stuff from tent, go to shower, and enjoy a cold bucket water (but it feels good after a sweaty day in the field).
- Get around dinner time with the team and chat, share daily anecdotes, laugh and listen to music
- Saturdays are fun (party) nights at Club Willy (our common area's name by night...it goes by Cafe Willie by day)

Oh, and I have to mention that using the latrine around noon time, comes with heavy insecticide use to kill all the flies and maggots (if successful!). Fun! Sadly, I'm the longest staying here among current team members (they always rotate). Everyone leaves between end of July until mid August and here I am, staying here until end of September.

Oh well! Bring it on South Sudan!

Maban, South Sudan
21.7.2012

*IMC: International Medical Corps

*WFP: World Food Program 




Monday, July 16, 2012

The South Sudanese Grasshopper

Skipper: the S. Sudanese grasshopper
I'm not sure what this is...but it seems to be the South Sudanese version of a Grasshopper. Anyway, I've noticed that these things are all over the place and they usually face the "squishing effect" of the South Sudanese shoe/flip-flop sole!!

Another day in Malakal, and another shower dilemma for me! I've decided to take a "mineral water shower" to wash my hair after noticing the brown-yellowish color of the tap water. You can imagine me standing in the middle of the yucky bathroom (in flip flops of course), pouring cold bottled mineral water on my soaped hair and body. Better than nothing but I'm not sure its a 100% clean.

Speaking of flip-flops, I somehow forgot my bathroom ones in Juba; so, i've been using my Birkenstoks (poor things!). Lets c how long they will last. I will go around Malakal muddy markets again today to look for a pair of flip-flops (tried yesterday... but didn't work!)

Joseph (my Kenyan colleague) and I are hoping to catch a plane, a helicopter...a bird (!) anything to get to the field tomorrow. Hope it works! I'm anticipating a very long day at smelly and sticky Malakal airport tomorrow.
 

Malakal, South Sudan
16.7.2012

Sunday, July 15, 2012

First Impressions from South Sudan

Joseph and Sobod at the UN compound in front of the "Hard Rock" Cafe in Malakal
So, skipping the many and countless things that happened around the world and also to my world in 2011, I am writing again to keep track of my current experience in South Sudan.

 Okay, in 2011: I worked with the GIZ, met a wonderful German man called Alex who became my husband in October 2011, got evacuated from Yemen in May 2011 and moved to Amman to live with my mother and finish my contract with the GIZ there (until February 2012).

That summarizes it!! Since, I finished my contract I've been looking for a job, My dilemma was whether to continue working in development and in which sector (to specialize of not). The world is so competitive and with the continuing crises around it, its not easy to find anything that meets one's needs and hopes. Anyway, Alex's job should be based in Erbil (north Iraq); however, he is not able to move there permanently yet due to political issues between Germany and Iraq. This has been going on for a year and both of us are frustrated with this unstable situation.

Within this uncertainty, and while I was browsing the internet for jobs (my daily routine between March and May 2012!), I came across this training on "Emergency Nutrition" that was to be held at AUB, Beirut. With Alex's support, I applied, got accepted and attended the 2 week training.

To make a long story short: during the training, I met a high ranking employee at the International Medical Corps to whom I've expressed my interest in going into the emergency field (specifically in nutrition). After accepting a volunteer opportunity with the IMC and after endless amounts of paperwork, here I am sitting in shabby IMC office in the little muddy and filthy town of Malakal, Upper Nile state, South Sudan!

 I've arrived in Juba on Wednesday July 11, 2012 (after a long trip through Cairo from Amman). Juba "international" airport is basically the size of Yemen's Socottra Island airport. For those who can imagine an island's airport, its that small! Add to the small size, chaotic with a lot of international workers and people arriving and slow airport staff. I think I was lucky though since I made it out of there in 15-20 minutes with all my luggage intact and visa in hand! (funny that I've also met a Yemeni there and spent some time chatting with him..)

 Juba is, as expected, pretty under-developed for a capital city. with a few well paved asphalt roads, the mud and dirt render it village-like. However, all major organizations, embassies and consulates are based there and hence the number of expats is not bad. At least, the hotel where I stayed was clean with hot water available.

The IMC office has been very welcoming. Mostly expatriate, everybody was welcoming and accommodating. I spent a couple of days in Juba (Thursday and Friday) and while there, had a unique opportunity to meet a friend from the Yemen crew, Anne-Marie, who lives and works with Unicef in Nairobi but was there for the weekend. I was booked to leave on Saturday with a couple other colleagues to go to Mabaan on the WFP flight and so I did.

We left Juba early morning to the airport and after hassling with check-in, we got onto the plane and made it to the first stop Malakal city, en route to Maban.

Here is where it gets interesting. Joseph (a colleague) and I were not on the WFP original manifest (we were actually, but their stupid system messed things up a day before traveling). Anyway, so we ended up having those paper tickets that we had to show to WFP guys every now and then. As we arrived to Malakal, we were told that since we were not on the manifest, we had to wait for the next afternoon flight. When was that? no one knew (because, in Maban, if there is little rain, flights are simply cancelled. So, it was kinda Ad Hoc!)

So, we waited and waited in the lounge area of the smelly and sticky Malakal airport. after an hour of so, the smell drove me to join my colleagues who were standing outside smoking. At least it was fresh air! So, I took my stuff and stood outside. After some more time (another hour I think), our colleague Raphael, who was good to go because he was on the manifest, saw that they are boarding so he left to Mabaan. We noticed that there were no expats left in the airport (strange) so we asked a random WFP employee about the second flight. His shocked expression said that we were simply left behind. A simple miscommunication error to us resulted in our current situation: we are stuck in Malakal until Tuesday (supposedly WFP has another flight on Tuesday!).

 Juba next to Malakal is civilization! I guess that sums it up! We have one of the worst logicians in the Malakal IMC office and this has resulted in us waiting at the airport for 2 hours for a pick-up and then getting booked in the filthiest hotel of all time.

We managed to get into another hotel (there are basically only 2 here anyway!). This new hotel is not that bad.. but its still filthy. I had to sleep my first night in one specific position while fighting anything that moves on top of my body. It wasn't the most comfortable night of my life but I've survived it. Another thing we've discovered is that water is not clean for showering at the hotel. So, I had to shower at the office (not a clean bathroom at all but clean water). I do use bottled water to brush my teeth but I think I will use that to wash my hair as well (!)

I realize that I won't be able to bathe and shower frequently in the camp so I will hopefully survive that with a few wet wipes! For now, we are working from Malakal office and trying to survive the yucky, hot and sticky accommodation. I hope we make it to the field soon (although I believe its going to be much worse with all the scorpion and snake hazards awaiting us there!)

Malakal, South Sudan
15.7.2012